A Quick Trip to Laos: Day 1 of 5 - Vientiane


When you get to Nong Khai, at 8:55AM, you need to pretend you're ready to walk to the Thai-Lao Friendship bridge to get a tuk-tuk to give you a ride for just twenty baht. Then it's just a two-minute ride to Thai side of immigration where I got my Thai visa stamped out. A B.10 bus takes you across to the Lao side and a passport-sized picture of yourself and B.1500 (or USD30) gets you a 15-day tourist visa good in all of Laos. Get your pictures before coming to Laos and you will save yourself a lot of trouble and the B.300 that some hustlers ask for to do your Lao visa application. You don't need them! Once you've crossed into Laos, pay the B.10 entry fee (don't ask) and now pretend you're going to take a bus to Vientiane. This landed us a taxi that took us the 25km to Vientiane for only B.100. Everybody takes Thai baht or US dollars in Laos and you can do change with just about anybody at rates that are nearly as good as the banks. It's 1 dollar to 10 000 kip and 260 kip to a baht.
note for those going to Laos as a visa runIn Vientiane, I stayed in a room that definitely needed a fresh lick of paint and whose mosquito screen I had to rig into place with tools I'd taken for my tripod. The bathrooms were outside and pretty clean and it only cost me B.200 (Sihom Guest House, sihomehotel@yahoo.com, 856-21 219081). By the time I'd eaten and washed up, the afternoon light was already getting pretty good and it was high time to explore.
You proabably already know there are two types of "visa runs" for those that plan on staying in Thailand for a long time. You can simply cross any Thai border to get a free 30-day tourist visa or re-activate one of those weird multiple-entry visas that I've never heard of anybody actually ever getting.
OR you can do a consulate run to get an extendable 60-day tourist visa, a non-immigrant, etc. With low-cost airlines, consulate runs to Singapore, Phom Pen or Kuala Lumpur are definitely an option but for those of you who've been to all those places before or are flat broke, Vientiane is a cheap and pleasant alternative.
From the Friendship Bridge, I went direct to the Thai embassy. You need to drop off your visa application before noon and I made it only ten minutes before that (hence the use of taking a taxi from the bridge, as opposed to waiting for a bus that will drop you off at the Vientiane's "Talad Sao" market). You need a picture, a photocopy of your passport and 1000 baht. Pick-up of your passport is the following working day after 1PM.





The wall running on the left of the above picture contains the actual temple. Temples charge 5,000 to 10,000 kip for entry, depending on their historical importance. This one is, of course, a 10,000 kip (wow!) temple and worth every one of them.

Note to photographer: that $150 Nikon ultra-thin super-multicoated polarizer version II in your bag, next time, use it.



Wat Si Saket has several unique features. The interior walls of the cloister are riddled with small niches that contain more than 2000 silver and ceraminc Buddha images. [...] Most of the images are from 16th to 19th century Vientiane, but a few hail from 15th to 16th century Luang Prabang.Luang Prabang is our next stop after Vientiane but that's Day 3!


My camera has a center-weighted light meter. That means I point it a different zones of the image and try to figure out how to get the light and dark zones properly exposed myself. I should be using Ansel Adams ten-zone system but I do a very approximated version of it which consists in trying to keep the dark and light zones within a reasonable range of the shutter speed and aperture I shoot at. If this makes no sense, read the masters' book "The Negative" and it still won't make any sense.


Lao people watch only Thai TV. I never saw a TV set on a Lao channel. They get it with a simple antenna in Vientiane (Thai mobiles work there too) as Thailand is just across the Mekong. In the rest of the country, a satellite dish does the job just fine. There are hill tribes that don't even speak Lao but in cities, everybody is bilingual Thai-Lao.
Simply pronouncing the word Lao will crack a Thai up. For Thais, they are the stupidest, most backward people. The "just say Lao" trick worked fine with my high-school students back in Phucket but adults fall for it too. When "Tom Yam Gung", the Thai-boxing action flick with Tony Ja, came out, there was a point in the trailer when Tony Ja's partner described China Town in Sydney as home to Chinese, Thais, Vietnamese, and then he would pause before adding, "Oh and Lao!" Which had the whole theater rolling to the floor with laughter, every time.
My opinion in just five days there is that the Lao, being landlocked, surrounded by five countries no less, and the victims of colonization, can be more worldly than the Thais who are a bit too convinced in the innate superiority of Thailand to take interest in their surroundings.
After dinner, we walked down onto the bed of the river which is nearing its lowest, April being the height of the dry season in the region. I was setting up this picture when this kid decided he wanted to be in it.



And that's it for Day 1. After sunset, we crashed at our guesthouse hoping the skies would clear up for Day 2. They didn't until Day 4!
4 Comments:
The camera did not die in vain... and film is not dead!
You really caught the light, the color, and your frame is impeccable as always.
Kudos, Ajarn!
Wow. As always, I love the photos. I even know who Ansel Adams is, though not enough to understand the references.
Sorry to see your camera took a spill. Nice autopsy though.
superbes photos !
j'y étais en décembre, quel pays merveilleux...
...Pffff je vais foutre mes photos du laos à la poubelle !
ça claque !
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